Tudor’s iconic Black Bay collection brings together a classic design aesthetic with modern watchmaking technology in a seamless way. Over the years, this range has grown to include high-performance chronographs as well as dressier divers, and become a fan favourite. The 2022 release builds on the legends of the past, inspired by a sense of glamour and poise. Its two new collections — the Black Bay S&G and Black Bay GMT — bring together the traditional and contemporary, in a neo-vintage conception of watchmaking.
The Black Bay S&G, a line in steel and yellow gold with a fixed bezel, comes in four sizes: 31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm. Foregoing the chunkier aesthetic for a more versatile design that adapts well to everyday use, this collection features a curved 316L steel case with polished and satin finish as well as a sleek bezel in yellow gold or, if you prefer more dazzling wrist candy, yellow-gold set diamonds (this option is available only for the 31mm, 36mm and 39mm pieces). The smoother form of the watch and range of sizes make this a more sophisticated and universal unisex model, fit for all wrists.
While its shape departs from the usual feel of Black Bay, a few elements reference iconic features of the past. Naturally, the yellow gold screw-down winding crown sports the Tudor rose in relief, a nod to the watch house’s name and historical logo. This model also includes the signature “Snowflake” angular hands, a staple of watches in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. This element, reminiscent of the first generation of Tudor’s divers timepieces, is one of the things that make the Swiss brand’s collections so emblematic.
The Black Bay S&G collection is powered by a new family of self-winding movements equipped with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring. While the larger models of 36mm, 39mm and 41mm are fitted with MT5400, MT5602 and MT5601 respectively, the specially developed MT5201 was crafted for the smaller dimensions of the 31mm timepiece. Not only are these Tudor Manufacture Calibres certified as chronometers by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), but they also exceed the performance standards set by the institute. The smaller MT5201 calibre has a power reserve of about 50 hours, whereas the other movements are “weekend-proof” because of the approximate power reserve of 70 hours.
Dial options include a classic black or smooth silver, and all iterations of this timepiece are available with a five-link bracelet in 316L steel and yellow gold, which matches the colour scheme of the case. Completing the strap is a strong 316L steel clasp with Tudor “T-fit” rapid adjustment system for the length, which requires no tools to adjust between five positions.
Sporting the same colour codes as the Black Bay S&G collection, the Tudor Black Bay GMT collection is a steel-and-gold makeover of the original Black Bay. This 41mm piece has a satin-brushed and polished case in 316L stainless steel and yellow gold, and inside is another COSC-certified movement, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652. This calibre is a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 70 hours, which means the wearer can take it off on Friday and strap it on again on Monday without having to reset it.
The hallmark of this GMT is the bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with the aesthetically pleasing insert in black-and-brown anodised aluminium — the brown section has 12 day-light hours, while the black represents night-time. Against the domed, grained matte black dial are four hands: minute, hour and jumping hour, or 24-hour hand, which can be moved backwards or forwards. Both hour hands feature the Tudor divers’ watch must-have, the angular “Snowflake” hand. With the addition of the 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and 24-hour hand, the wearer can also read a third time zone.
The Black Bay GMT S&G model is available in three strap choices. The riveted 316L steel and yellow gold bracelet is ideal for those who prefer a classic look and feel, whereas the brown leather strap with light top-stitching, steel folding clasp and safety catch has a more vintage look about it. Since 2010, Tudor has been offering fabric straps woven in France using a traditional method involving 19th-century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure ribbon company in the St Etienne region, hence the black fabric strap with beige band and buckle for this GMT.
Celebrating the combination of steel and gold is clearly at the heart of these collections. While the S&G range opts for a dressier and more versatile selection, the GMT S&G is perfect for diving (with water resistance of 200m) or everyday adventures. All watches benefit from Tudor’s five-year guarantee. What more could one ask for?
Better in bronze
Bronze is certainly not a new material in the world of watchmaking, but what makes the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze special is how the colours are thoughtfully layered to a monochromatic design. From the domed bronze-brown dial to the bezel and strap options, this timepiece has a distinctive attitude and presence all of its own. Its beating heart is the MT5400 calibre, a self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system boasting COSC certification and 70-hour power reserve.
Inspired by bronzed old ships and other deep-sea diving equipment, this 39mm bronze case also references historical Tudor divers’ watches from the late 1950s, such as the 7924 reference, or “Big Crown”, which was the first of the brand’s watches to be waterproof to 200m. What makes a bronze case special is its ever-evolving quality; with age, it develops a special patina and, because of the satin-brushed finishes of this Black Bay Fifty-Eight, you are guaranteed a unique development of patina.
Atop the bronzed-brown dial are Super-LumiNova-filled indices and the traditional “Snowflake” hands. The unidirectional rotating bezel in bronze with 60-minute graduated matte “bronze-brown” anodised aluminium disc has the same gold accents as the hands and hour markers, giving unity to the piece. Waterproof up to 200m, Fifty-Eight Bronze is crafted with great care to ensure its exact appearance, which truly embodies the rustic charm of its historical inspirations.
What completes this piece is the matching bracelet made entirely of bronze. With satin-brushed links, its riveted design was taken from Tudor bracelets from the 1950s and 1960s, and so, like the case, it will develop a patina according to the user’s lifestyle. The bracelet also includes a bronze clasp with a redesigned cover and Tudor “T-fit” rapid adjustment length. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight comes with an additional bronze-brown fabric strap with band and bronze buckle for a more sporty look. This watch is a special boutique edition and, in Malaysia, it is available only at The Hour Glass Mid Valley Megamall and Pavilion Kuala Lumpur Tudor boutiques.