THE clock held by Atlas on the facade of Tiffany & Co was first mounted in 1853, making it one of the earliest publicly displayed clocks in New York City. The new CT60 line of watches pays tribute to Tiffany’s timekeeping history, placing New York right on the dial of a well-rounded group of watches. If you’re not yet ready to head up to the mezzanine level of Tiffany to visit the Patek Philippe salon, a CT60 is a great alternative.
The collection is pretty diverse, including a three-hand model in both men’s and women’s sizes, a chronograph, and a limited-edition calendar watch. Prices range from US$4,250 (RM15,385) to US$19,000, depending on the level of complication, whether the watch is stainless steel or rose gold, and whether you prefer an alligator strap or a metal bracelet. Across the line-up, though, is a distinct vintage vibe, with faux-faded Arabic numerals, slim hands and clean case shapes. Tiffany clearly got the memo that watches of yesteryear are all the rage.
The three-hand CT60 comes in a 34mm size intended for women (with optional diamonds on the bezel, though I suggest going without) and a 40mm men’s size that adds a date function at 6 o’clock. The dial colours are great across the board, with the rich blue and grey standing out from the rest. The red arrow tip on the second hand is a nice detail, and the luminous patina on the hour and minute hands means you can see the time in the dark. While I’m normally a big fan of bracelets on everyday watches like these, the faceted metal bracelet doesn’t seem to match the rest of the design, so stick to the alligator this time.
The chronograph adds another layer of complication and comes in a sportier package. At 42mm, it’s on the large side for a watch that looks more like a dress chrono than a true sports watch, but the white dial and low-contrast numerals are really elegant. Priced at US$6,750 in steel on the alligator strap, the CT60 chrono is meant to be a serious competitor to basic chronographs from the likes of Cartier and Montblanc.
Finally there’s a limited-edition CT60 that’s available only in rose gold. It uses the same 40mm case as the three-hand models but adds date and month indicators. This model is inspired by a historic Tiffany watch owned by Franklin Delano Roosevelt, though it’s much larger and has a pared-down dial. At US$19,000, it’s on the expensive side for what it is, but if you’re a fan of heritage-driven designs or love having “Tiffany” and “New York” on the dial, it could be a good choice for you.
Considered together, the CT60 collection is a step in a good direction for Tiffany, which at one point was one of the most prestigious retailers and makers of watches in the United States. For some time now its house-branded watches have stood behind its other products, but it looks like those days are finally over. — Bloomberg
This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily, on April 6, 2015.