Food & Drink: Perfection incarnate with Chateau Angelus

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This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily, on January 27, 2017.


JANUARY has been a great month for wine aficionados. Last Saturday, Resorts World Genting hosted a one-night-only wine and dine event with French winery Chateau Angelus and its restaurant the Logis de la Cadene at E18hteen Inspired Dining, Maxims Hotel in Genting Highlands.

The dinner was prepared by two chefs from the Logis de la Cadene, one of the oldest restaurants (founded in 1848) in Saint-Emilion, France. Executive chef Alexandre Baumard is an innovator in French gastronomy who frequently reinvents classic French cuisine by adding his unique touch of creativity. Together with pastry chef Damine Amilien, the talented pair presented an intricate five-course experience to our delight.

Our experience began with “melanosporum” (black) truffles, served in Parmesan risotto. We could almost smell the melted butter and finely chopped onion in it. Imagine shavings of black truffle stirred into the rice, with wine poured in until it has pretty much disappeared, and stock added before it boils down to almost nothing with the rice often stirred down to a creamy texture. Parmesan cheese is then added with more fresh truffle shaved over the top.

We found the Le Carillon d’Angelus 2012 to be medium bodied, easy-drinking, elegant with nice density and structure, and layers of dark berry fruit.

This was followed by foie gras in a ravioli with vegetable in a broth, reminiscent of a classic French homestyle stew. What a moment in luxury.

The wine pairing was a Chateau Bellevue 2010. Seated on my right was a wine merchant who had this to say: “It has a very well-expressed nose with floral and fragrant fruit. Very refreshing acidity and fine tannins. This is a very elegant wine that has finesse.”

Our meal was followed by a lighter course of scallops with cabbage, flowers, greens and oranges. Most satisfying and healthy. The wine pairing was a Chateau Angelus 2008 which was a dark ruby with dense flavours of violets, cedar, tobacco and blackberry fruit. I found it to be fresh, vibrant and long on the finish.

What followed was a divine hen pheasant stuffed with foie gras and black truffle. Imagine different textures around old-style vegetables, wine sauce aerated with foie gras. This was turning out to be a surprisingly wonderful tasting medley.

This dish was paired with a Chateau Angelus 2006. This wine exuded anise, chocolate, plums, coffee beans, blackberry, spice and floral scents.

Young, talented Logis de la Cadene pastry chef Amilien closed the meal on a sweet note with his intoxicating grues of cocoa mousse, heart of guanaja and tonka bean ice cream served as a chocolate tart. The wine paring was a Chateau Angelus 2011 which we found to be silky and light bodied with lifted aromatics and a nice finish.

What a way to live and dine.

Each wine pairing menu was priced at RM1,388 nett.

Note: There is also available until today — since Jan 10 — a three-star Michelin dining menu of the legendary Georges Blanc restaurant at Resorts World Genting’s The Olive restaurant.