Celebrating art de vivre

IT was a cool, Friday evening when about 800 people made their way up to Genting Highland to celebrate Martell’s 300th anniversary. The date was March 6, and the gathering was made up of cognac lovers, members of the media and Malaysian glitterati, in what was the first of many gala dinners that are to be held this year in conjunction with the house’s tercentenary. Martell global chief executive officer Philippe Guettat, Martell cellar master Benoit Fil and direct descendant of Jean Martell, Antoine Martell, were also in attendance.  

The event saw the Genting International Convention Centre, perched some 1,524m above sea level, transformed into the magnificent Chateau de Chanteloup, the Martell property used to host dignitaries and friends since the days of the brand’s founder Jean Martell. Everyone arrived dressed in their finest interpretation of French elegance.   

There were music and dance performances, and shouts of yam seng throughout the night.

Even though the night’s programme included a riveting performance by premier percussions group Hands Percussion, the real hero of the night was Martell’s blends of cognac and the food with which they were paired.  

A cognac’s substantial body and complexity can be intimidating. An acquired taste for many, fans of the drink love it for the surprises it affords the palate, from the velvet, rich greeting in the mouth to the comfort of a long, spicy finish. One would imagine such characteristics would make it difficult to enjoy throughout the meal, but Martell has it down to an art-science — a practice it brands “pure gourmet”, inspired by the house’s pure method in the creation of its cognacs. It is basically a selective approach to the preparation of a plate, much like the way Martell selects specific crus and practices a strict double-distillation method and ageing process. 

In tribute to its longstanding relationship with Asia, with the earliest documented shipment of Martell to the Far East dating back to 1868, Martell’s Tricentenaire Gala Dinner in Genting featured a Chinoiserie menu. Leading guests on this special culinary adventure was Jacques Menier, Martell’s heritage director, who created sensational tastes through the five pairings. 

The dinner opened with the Citrus-infused King Prawn and Salmon Tartare, a refreshing appetiser that was delicate as it was elegant, perfectly paired with none other than the equally elegant Martell Cordon Bleu. The cognac’s finish provided a touch of spice to the dish. This was followed by the superb Peppercorn Marinated Smoked Duck and Foie Gras Terrine — a gorgeously hearty dish with perfectly cooked duck making for a beautiful pairing with the iconic Cordon Bleu, the notes of which include orange tree flowers, honey and crystallised plums. 

The main course was Steamed Sea Bass served with a spicy broth. The richness of the sea bass accompanied the robust Martell Cordon Bleu 1912, its intense flavours and aromas deeply enriching the otherwise quite simple dish. Go big or go home was the combination that followed — the Mediterranean Herbed Crusted Loin of Lamb and the Martell XO. The powerful cognac needed a bit of gamy meat, and the lamb was certainly a good match, dressed in a smooth sauce. 

To finish was the Gâteau du Tricentenaire. Chocolate and Martell cognac have long been a classic pairing in France since the days of Jean Martell, so this was really a no-brainer. The rich dark chocolate gâteau was accompanied by a mix of plum coulis and wild berries which really brought out the candied plums and berries characters of the XO. 

Martell’s blends have always been marked by beautiful, complex aromas with notes of dried fruits and prunes, and the dinner was a true showcase of the sophistication of its craftsmanship and the many pleasures its cognacs are able to conjure on the palate.  

The Martell family had always known that terroir was a key influence in the quality of its cognac, and was one of the first houses to cultivate its own vineyards, controlling production and quality from a grassroots level. It has also remained steadfast to several winegrowers in the region, some of which have been associated with Martell since the time of its founder.

The payoff from such painstaking efforts to remain true to its heritage and traditions has never been more evident than at the elegant Tricentenaire Gala Dinner.