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This article first appeared in City & Country, The Edge Malaysia Weekly on May 13, 2019 - May 19, 2019

Ask anyone who lives in Klang and they will tell you that Jalan Stesen is notorious for its traffic jams. The next person who comes along will probably say that the neighbourhood is famed for its food offerings.

When I got to Jalan Stesen on a recent afternoon, it was surprisingly clear although it was a little difficult to find a parking spot.

At one end is the Klang KTM station, from which the street derives its name — stesen is Malay for station. Built in 1890, the small, single-storey tiled-roof building has been renovated many times over the years but its colonial-style architecture remains clearly evident. On the other end of the street is the Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery, housed in the Sultan Suleiman Building — a classic colonial building built in 1909. According to the Tourism Selangor website, the building was used as the land and administration office during British rule. In World War II, it became the headquarters for the Japanese forces.

After independence, several local agencies occupied the building before it was turned into the royal gallery. Sultan Sharafuddin Idris Shah officially opened it in 2007.

The gallery highlights the rich history and heritage of the Selangor Sultanate, which originated in 1766 from the Bugis Sulawesi Royal family of Opu Tanreburung Daeng Relaka of the Malay Archipelago.Located next to the building is Pos Malaysia Klang.

Old 2-storey shophouses that look rather weathered — in a mixture of Malay, Chinese and European architectural styles — line the street. The Klang Municipal Council is making an effort to conserve the buildings, which are featured as part of a guided tour — the Royal Klang Town Heritage Walk.

The shophouses house banks, restaurants, clinics and stationery shops, among other businesses.

One establishment that stands out is the Chong Kok Kopitiam, which has been operating since 1940. When I dropped by, I saw many people waiting patiently to be seated.

The kopitiam serves up Malaysian favourites such as kaya and butter toast, half-boiled eggs and nasi lemak, and is especially famous for its coffee.

A regular, Chan, says he went there for breakfast almost every weekend when he was growing up. It became a family tradition and a great way to spend time with his parents and siblings.

“There were so many people that often, we had to share a table with strangers. As my parents are the chatty type, they would easily strike up a conversation with whoever was sharing our table and would soon be talking like they had known each other for years,” he recalls.

He observes that apart from the Chinese, “it is also a favourite eating place for Malays and Indians. In this restaurant, there are no racial differences, just Malaysians sharing their love of food.”

Although he has since moved away from the town, he still goes back to the kopitiam on weekends for his coffee fix. “I love going there with my parents and chat with them over a cup of coffee, a plate of nasi lemak and some toast and eggs.”

On average, there is only one transaction every year for the shophouses in Jalan Stesen, according to Metro Homes Sdn Bhd director See Kok Loong. The transacted prices are RM900,000 to RM1 million and the rent is about RM4,000 per month.

“Future growth for that area is limited as there are only a few shophouses and parking remains an issue, as in any other old area. Furthermore, people prefer to visit shopping malls and the newer areas these days,” he says.

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