This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily, on October 1, 2015.
Hugo Boss and Hackett London’s tastefully bold picks for the autumn/winter season
FASHION is ever-evolving, and every season sees designers and creative directors of fashion labels venture fearlessly into previously untapped territory. The recently concluded New York Fashion Week saw men walk down the runway in skirts, dresses and chiffon blouses, but consumers’ reception to these trends remains to be seen. Will we see the man on the street wearing them or will they be reserved to the catwalk and donned by celebrities in performances only?
Nevertheless, one matter is certain — menswear collections, in general, are getting more daring and experimental, catering for a market that is increasingly adventurous while being discerning towards quality.
This is a welcome change from the tried and tested designs. The most noticeable shift, and one that even the most conservative consumer may most likely readily embrace, is in terms of colour. While the overall collections for autumn/winter keep to a neutral colour palette, be prepared to see pops of colour like maroon, deep red of royal blue among the navy, grey, brown and off-white hues.
The recent press presentation of Hugo Boss and Hackett London’s autumn/winter 2015 collections epitomise this — championing versatility and glamour without compromising on good tailoring and quality of materials — with some surprises, all of which go well when worn with confidence and finesse.
The BOSS line by Hugo Boss is all about tailored precision in their perfectly proportioned coats and suits, which range from cool granite and glacier blue to brick red. As for the choice of fabric, mouliné knit fabrics meet classic herringbone patterns, mesh finishes and brushed surfaces. The brand finds a balance between clean, tailored lines and functional, fine materials as seen in the quilted winter coats and cotton-alpaca blend slim fit suits.
The Boardroom collection under Hackett’s premium Mayfair label reflects the busy lifestyle of an international executive. The line boasts advanced tailoring whereby the internal structure of Mayfair jackets are all canvassed together as well as high quality — each canvassed jacket is hand-stitched and takes a full 300 minutes to make. Although tweed features predominantly, do not expect to see an explosion of checks in the collection as this time around, the brand goes with an understated approach in the classic and slim-fitting suits that include the signature pocket square.
Casual wear and high fashion
Hugo Boss is also inspired by 19th-century dandyism and dressed-up street wear. Think blazers with a touch of Adam Lambert’s almost diva-like glamour, combining punk subcultures with high fashion. The details on clothing include embellished shirt collars, studded suit lapels and zip detailing on boots, giving an edgy feel that would appeal to fans of punk and grunge-themed fashion who prefer to go with a more subtle look.
Hackett’s street wear collection envisions a young man who is energetic and full of dynamism for the city, with outfits that are simple yet stylish. Denim is seen on jeans, shirts and jackets in addition to the casual tracksuits from the London Rowing Club range.
Living in an increasingly borderless world could mean meetings in different continents, all in a day’s work. There is a demand for suits that do not crease easily, making it possible to go directly to a meeting without having to change from one outfit to another. The materials that make up the BOSS collection for autumn/winter 2015 incorporate travel-friendly breathable technology. Pants are crafted in pure wool knit, coats in superfine Merino wool and tops in mohair and cashmere for luxurious comfort.
The Balmoral line by Hackett also draws focus to layering when travelling for work or for pleasure, enabling one to dress for varying weather conditions. Customers can choose from cashmere cardigans and heavy knit jumpers to be worn under blazers or teamed with lightweight scarves or print ties to achieve the desired look.