Watches: As the iconic Tank watch turns 100, Cartier releases  new models

This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily, on September 14, 2017.
-A +A

It’s the Tank’s 100th birthday, and you knew all along that Cartier was going to celebrate in a big way. We’re finally seeing the new models released for the centenary, and there is a pretty diverse range of offerings. What we’ve got here are six new versions of the Tank Louis Cartier (or LC for short), the most basic modern Tank. There are versions with diamonds and without, in pink and white gold, and in two different sizes. 

First up we’ve got a pair of Tanks without diamonds. To me, these are the two most worth paying attention to. They’re good for men or women and the sizes and styling make them perfect for almost any situation. Both watches here are pink gold, one in the small size (29.5mm x 22mm x 6.8mm) and one in the large size (33.7mm x 25.5mm x 6.6mm), and both are as classic as it gets. Each has just two blued steel hands, the traditional Roman numeral dial with a silvered finish, and the cabochon crown. Inside is the calibre 8971 MC, which is an in-house manually wound movement. If you’re looking for a basic Tank, it’s not going to get much better than this. The small model is priced at US$9,150 (RM38,338.50) and the large model is priced at US$11,500.

Now, if you’re not interested in diamonds, I’m probably about to lose you. Up next are a pair of large-size Tanks, in pink gold and white gold, each with two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Also note that instead of the sapphire cabochon in the crown, there’s a matching diamond set there as well. As far as diamond watches go, these are pretty understated and traditional. Retail prices are US$19,500 for pink gold and US$20,800 for white gold.

Finally, we’ve got the last two new Tank LCs. These are identical to the models above, just in the smaller size. They’ve still got the two rows of diamonds, the classic Tank shape, and, importantly that in-house manually wound movement. Using the 8971 MC here is a nice touch, when Cartier could easily have substituted a quartz movement with little criticism. Prices are US$15,500 for pink gold and US$16,000 for white gold. — Bloomberg