Tuesday 16 Apr 2024
By
main news image

This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily on June 14, 2017

GILI Trawangan is one of those destinations where you can switch off from the outside world and return to simple pleasures. 

Lazing on white-sand beaches, staring into clear blue skies and a leisurely dip in azure blue melting into emerald green waters are mandatory pastimes.

At every turn, you will see skimpily clad tourists flaunting their well-built physiques and suntan, the result of hours spent in the outdoors. 

These are not merely guilty pleasures, but mandatory pastimes which I indulged in on the island, located north-west of Lombok, Indonesia.

The island’s rustic charm and languid pace are a balm to anyone’s frazzled nerves.

Trawangan is the largest of three Gili islands, including Air and Meno — all within close proximity to each other. These popular getaways are easily accessible via a two-hour boat ride from Bali, or 30 minutes from Lombok.

On arriving in Trawangan, I quickly noticed the absence of motorised vehicles — good riddance. Pony cart rides known as “cidomos” and bicycles for rental were available instead, although I managed to explore the entire island on foot within six hours.

Much of my time was also spent lying on pristine beaches, enjoying soothing sounds of crashing waves, and dipping my feet in the shallow coastal parts — it was all about taking it easy.

As I cannot swim, activities such as diving and snorkelling were not in my list of things to do. 

Trawangan’s deep waters teeming with marine life, such as sharks, turtles, giant clams and magnificent coral reefs, attract hordes of diving and snorkelling enthusiasts on a regular basis.

Many dive companies are available here, and amateurs keen on learning diving or snorkelling can enrol at the acclaimed Gili Divers or Lutwala Dive.

Several locals — whom I hung out with under a shady hut next to a beach — pointed out that Turtles Point, Meno Wall and Shark Point, where marine life is particularly abundant, are particularly popular among many divers, among over 25 dive sites surrounding the Gili islands.

Top-notch snorkelling can be had at North Beach, where the currents are gentler. Alternatively, you could take a plunge into the waters in a glass-bottom boat to get up-close with over 6,000 species of marine life.

Sea-kayaking is another exciting activity requiring professional guides provided by establishments like Karma Kayak, which is managed by Astrid, a former champion stunt kayaker.

In the north-west of Trawangan, deep or bottom fishing is the pastime du jour. Bring your own equipment if you are not accustomed to the traditional way of fishing.

Notably, Trawangan’s location is ideal for visitors to witness awe-inspiring sunsets over Bali’s Mount Agung and sunrises over Lombok’s Mount Rinjani.

Due to lack of time, I was not able to go island-hopping to Air and Meno, as it requires either taking the infrequent shuttle boats or chartering one.

Swimming to the nearby islands is not an option either, after several backpackers died attempting it, due to strong currents.

Air and Meno are still unspoilt by mass tourism, but Trawangan has become more crowded and pricier for essentials like accommodation, food and beverages.

Sometimes, the limited number of hotels, luxury villas and boutique bungalows cannot cope with the large number of visitors — thus putting pressure on Trawangan’s environment, especially the supply of fresh water.

I put up at the cosy Cotton Tree Cottages, a 15-minute walking distance from Market Square, where food stalls open in the evenings, drawing large crowds seeking affordable and yummy local delights.

For food, I gorged on grilled fish and chicken, gado-gado, sate lilit, local desserts ... all without burning a hole in my pocket.

On my last day in Trawangan, a sunset cruise on South Sea Nomads — Trawangan’s sole party boat complete with a well-stocked bar — was in order.

For a fee, a visitor gets a delicious meal and shared snorkel gear. It was great fun splashing in the sea, in the safety of the boat’s netting.

I also enjoyed great conversations with other guests from around the world over ice-cold beers, while cruising around the Gili islands.

Some of the guests even jumped into the clear waters when the boat made several stops, before returning to Trawangan at dusk.

With the beautiful sunset, it was a memorable ending to my trip.

      Print
      Text Size
      Share